A set of dog-eared and characterful handwritten books record over fifteen thousand place-names from Abberwick to Youly Sike, with brief descriptions of the places, giving a fascinating overview of Northumberland (including Tyneside) around 1860, a time of great change, and they are now accessible on the Northumberland Name Books website which goes live on 1 September 2021.

The 104 Ordnance Survey Name Books for Northumberland (most housed in The National Archives, Kew) record the immense fieldwork project that lies behind the First Edition Six Inch-scale maps of the county, and all subsequent maps. The surveyors visited every corner of the county, consulting locals, describing the landscape and archaeological sites and recording gentlemen's residences, colliers' cottages, churches, chapels and now long-gone farms, ferries, wells, spas, pubs, mines and 'manufactories'.

Thanks to the dedicated work of over thirty volunteers led by retired professor Diana Whaley, a full set of transcriptions and images, together with introductory sections, can now be freely searched and browsed on the website. For anyone interested in town and country, past and present, in names,
or in the story behind our mapping, this is a treasure trove well worth exploring.

Particular thanks to Irwin Thompson, Cornwell Internet, Explore, principal funders the English Place-Name Society (Jim and Mary Ann Wilkes Fund), the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle upon Tyne and Catherine Cookson Charitable Trust.

I quote the following story about one of the Upper Coquetdale landowners at the time of the Ordnance Survey in the early 1860s as it fits with a project on transcribing the OS Name Books for Northumberland that I am involved with at the moment.

The story is part of a short biography of Mr. Carr, in a regular section called Men of Mark ‘twirt Tyne & Tweed in The Monthly Chronicle of North-Country Lore and Legend Vol. 3 (1887-1891)’, p. 385-387.

You can read this, and other works during the life of Ralph Carr for yourself here.
 
RALPH CARR-ELLISON (1805-1884, originally Ralph Carr) was the eldest son of John Carr, Esq. of Dunston Hill and Hedgeley.
 
Mr. Carr, 'landowner, antiquary and naturalist', was one of the few men who ever made the Ordnance Survey officials admit an error in topographical nomenclature.

He owned the estate of Makenden at the head of Coquet, which runs up to what is locally known as "the Scotch Edge," where it "marches" with the property of the Duke of Roxburgh. In this district the boundary line between England and Scotland usually follows the water shed (or, as Dandie Dinmont [a character in Guy Mannering by Sir Walter Scott, 1815] expressed it, "the tap o' the hill, where win and water shears") between the valleys of the Teviot and Bowmont on the Scotch side, and those of the Rede, Coquet, and Breamish on the English.

But in various places the Scotch, like "Jock o' Dawston Cleugh", have encroached over the crest of the hills. These encroachments are usually marked on old maps as "batable" i.e., debatable ground. One such plot of "batable" land lay between the properties of Mr. Carr and the Duke of
Roxburgh, where, according to the contention of the Scotch, the march leaves the "tap o' the hills and bauds down by the Syke" in which the Coquet rises, thus cutting off the Plea Shank, which, like Dandie Dinmont's ground, "lying high and exposed, may feed a hogg [a sheep up to the age of one year; one yet to be sheared], or aiblins twa [perhaps two] in a gude year."

The spot is familiar to antiquaries, for the ancient Roman Camp, "Ad Fines", now known as Chew Green, lies just below it, and the Roman Road of Watling Street [Dere Street] here crosses the moors into Scotland.

For the sake of peace it had been arranged, at some former time, between the owners and occupiers, that half the Plea Shank should be pastured by each party. But when the Ordnance Survey came to be made, the Scotch revived their claim to the whole, and by some means or other contrived to win over those who were conducting the survey.

Little more was heard of the matter till the maps were issued, showing the boundary between England and Scotland drawn along the English side of the debatable ground. Then the English tenant was politely invited by his Scotch neighbour to keep his sheep on his own side of the new boundary.

On hearing this, Mr. Carr took steps to obtain all possible evidence from ancient maps and documents in the British Museum and elsewhere ; and instructed his tenant to turn a few sheep on to the disputed land in the meanwhile.

Meeting the farmer shortly afterwards, Mr. Carr said, "Well
Thompson, I suppose you put half-a-dozen sheep or so on
to the Plea Shank?" "Oh, no, sir," was the answer, "I just wysed on [used] fifty score!"

The result of Mr. Carr's investigations was to show that the land had been either English or debatable for centuries. This was brought to the notice of the officials in charge of the Ordnance Survey, the already issued maps were recalled and cancelled, and new ones restoring the Plea Shank to its
old " batable" character were published.

The name 'Plea Shank' doesn't appear to have made it onto the 1st edition map although there is a 'Plea Knowe' on the border further away to the north-east, and another 'Plea Shank' near the line of Dere Street (formerly recorded as Watling Street) but on undisputedly Scottish land in the Borders, much further north.

I was re-reading the leaflets from last year's Tales of the Frontier which reminded me of another 'Little Man' located in the Tyne valley, potentially much older than 'Heddon Man', the subject of my, tongue in cheek, April 1st post.

The sandstone sculture was found in 1970 at Waters Meet, where the North and South Tyne Rivers converge, and is something of a mystery.

Believed to be of Romano-British origin, the stone represents a rare, previously unrecorded style. The figure, possibly ‘Hercules’, carries a club in right hand. The carving was kept in Acomb House for 30 years, then spent 5 years in a barn. It now stands just off the bridleway at the edge of the village.

The carved sandstone block about 86cm high bearing the figure of 'Acomb Man' was installed in 2011 where the bridle path joins The Green in the village of Acomb, Northumberland.

It was found in 1970 at Water's Meet (Howford), where the Rivers North & South Tyne join west of Hexham and remained at Acomb House for 30 years until the house was sold.

Stan Beckensall compiled a report on the carving and sent it to English Heritage. He said experts at the Museum of Antiquities and the Vindolanda and Arbeia Forts on Hadrian’s Wall had confirmed the carving was probably made during the Roman occupation in the 2nd or 3rd century.

"Paul Bidwell, an expert at Arbeia Fort in Wallsend, says it’s in a native style and therefore very unusual and very rare – perhaps unique,” said Stan.

“The carving is obviously meant to be Hercules; he’s holding a club across his chest in one hand and a round object in the other that might be a purse or a dish."

Dr Sharpe remembers being intrigued by the ‘Little Man’ of Acomb, which appears in leaflet ‘No. 7 The Tyne Valley: Old Stones and New Faith’.

“It’s a carved figure of a man with a very sweet smile on his face. There is still some debate as to whether it’s actually Roman,” she says. “It was found at the Tyne Waters Meet in 1970 and was kept in a barn for many years before it reappeared. The villagers wouldn’t let it go to the museum – it’s now on a concrete plinth at the edge of the village."

A recent visit to the fabulous Dunstanburgh Castle on the Northumberland coast north of Craster reminded me of some nearby place-names similar to the more famous, Rumbling Kern, further south at Howick.

It has been described as a churn or barrel through which the sea runs noisily.

Bill Griffiths in 'Fishing and Folk: Life and Dialect on the North Sea Coast' (2008) describes two similar local features: 'Rumble Churn' at Dunstanburgh and 'The Churn' on the Farne Islands.

The latter feature is said to be a cavity in the rock near the north-west point of Inner Farne. It has a hole at the top through which the water is forced by the sea, producing a beautiful 'jet d'eau' (water-spout), particularly when the wind is from the north-east with a heavy swell. Presumably, he says, the noise resembles the rumbling sound of a churn.

This new and beautiful example of Northumbrian rock-art has just turned up.

Sadly, at the moment, if I told you where it was found I would have to kill you, probably with a Neolithic hand-axe or an arrow tipped with an Early Bronze Age barbed and tanged arrowhead.

The panel, on the horizontal surface of natural sandstone bedrock has an array of cups with multiple rings, deep cups with more delicate, distorted rings, cups without rings, a dumb-bell, and a delightful and intriguing set of curving grooves which flow over the rock surface, connecting many of the motifs and uniting the overall design. It appears to have been made by an accomplished  prehistoric artist, made to fit with the natural cracks and cover the sections between. It is clearly a very good example of the 4000 year-old, Northumbrian rock-art tradition.

Art is certainly how it appears, but quite why these carvings were created we can now only speculate. See here for some of my thoughts.

Further study of this new panel and its locality will add to our knowledge of the important prehistoric rock art heritage of the area. It certainly brightened up my day.

LINKS

England's Rock Art - ERA

I have just had the honour to help with a field archaeology survey of land north of Hadrian's Wall at Sewingshields over four days in March. I was employed as a volunteer with the Tynedale Archaeology Group.  During our recording of several stack stands (used to store winter fodder), old field boundaries and occasional settlements, I became acquainted with the Black Dyke, a long linear earthwork that tracks some distance through Northumberland, something I had only before seen on maps.

There is another, better known long earthwork, the Devil's Causeway, which can also be traced through the county. This, however, is actually a Roman road. It branches off Dere Street (the modern A68) where it crosses the Military Road at Port Gate, north of Corbridge, and runs in long straight lines north to the mouth of the River Tweed at Berwick.

The Black Dyke is one of the mysteries of Northumberland. It is a linear earthwork consisting of an embankment with a ditch on its west side, both of variable size, and completely untraceable in some areas. A definitive description was presented to the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne by George R B Spain in November 1921, and published in their journal, Archaeologia Aeliana, Ser.3, Vol.19, p.121-168 (1922).

A talk by John Grundy on Monday 25th June in St Andrew's Church, beautifully decorated for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee Flower Festival weekend. It was good to see as many as 100 people in the church for the talk.

John, in characteristic humour, made this an illustrated talk 'with no flowers' but did sneak one or two flowery slide photos for those who were watching carefully. My notes don't allow me to give a full detailed account of all he told us and I can't hope to cover all the gardens he mentioned. I just give you lots of photos (mainly from Geograph) and flowers without the jokes!

The talk covered the history of gardens in the county from speculated gardens around our earliest castles to the planned landscapes of the big estates in the 18th and 19th centuries, many based on features shown in romantic paintings and the grand tours of classical Europe.

Many of these gardens cost a great deal to make, a tradition which still continues with the garden at Alnwick Castle. Redevelopment of the garden was instigated by Jane Percy (the current and 12th Duchess of Northumberland) in 1997, with Belgian landscape designers Jacques and Peter Wirtz. It is the most ambitious new garden created in the United Kingdom since World War II, with a reported total development cost of £42 million (Wikipedia).

Magnificent (and numerous) though they are, it is not just the mansion houses that dominate the gardens of Northumberland. Smaller properties and even the productive miner/farmer small holdings of our once industrial valleys are also part of the floral mix.

John mentioned the yards of terraced houses, cottage gardens of our villages and the gardens of the pit cottages at Beamish that would also house a pig and some chickens. Gardens by man in God's own garden of Northumberland.

Personal spaces created by their owners. Contrast merely in scale.

My favourites belong in this category too - the garden at the disused Langley Station, and the wonderful quirky Cement Menagerie at Branxton.

THE GLORY OF THE GARDEN
by Rudyard Kipling

Our England is a garden that is full of stately views,
Of borders, beds and shrubberies and lawns and avenues,
With statues on the terraces and peacocks strutting by;
But the Glory of the Garden lies in more than meets the eye.

For where the old thick laurels grow, along the thin red wall,
You will find the tool- and potting-sheds which are the heart of all;
The cold-frames and the hot-houses, the dungpits and the tanks:
The rollers, carts and drain-pipes, with the barrows and the planks.

And there you'll see the gardeners, the men and 'prentice boys
Told off to do as they are bid and do it without noise;
For, except when seeds are planted and we shout to scare the birds,
The Glory of the Garden it abideth not in words.

And some can pot begonias and some can bud a rose,
And some are hardly fit to trust with anything that grows;
But they can roll and trim the lawns and sift the sand and loam,
For the Glory of the Garden occupieth all who come.

Our England is a garden, and such gardens are not made
By singing:--"Oh, how beautiful!" and sitting in the shade,
While better men than we go out and start their working lives
At grubbing weeds from gravel-paths with broken dinner-knives.

Read the rest of Rudyard Kipling's poem at Project HappyChild - linking children all across the world.

Gardens of Northumberland by the Borders by Susie White (2006)